Part of the reason the 36V actually 33V tools were so powerful is the 10 cells they had were physically bigger, and actually 2. The new 36V 33v dewalt packs actually have 20 smaller cells, but they are 3. So 33V X 2. When coupled with brushless, it's likely we'll get more work out of these 18V drills. DeWalt and others could go a step farther and make a 6.
VERY interesting thing about the intelligent battery packs: Instant source of useful usage feedback for engineering optimization and customer needs. Rather slick, but also rather underhanded, like big brother watching every time I use my tools, not cool.
They know we will recycle their batteries, all they have to do is collect them and upload the usage data. Bottom line is, I pay a premium for tools that perform to the max. Motor burns out? Replace the motor. It is worth the performance! And I have put my drills through mixing mud, driving 4" deck screws, hanging sheetrock, framing with screws, drilling through stucco with 4" hole saws, hammering into concrete, and running light and heavy electrical using spades and augers, with very little time spent in first or second gear.
In fact, I usually only use those gears when the battery is nearly dead and I just need to finish sinking a screw. I have only ever replaced one drill, the transmission failed and would not switch back to high gear I should have never put it into first gear!
My other two 18v drills are starting to show the need for new brushes--after more than 10 years of abuse! Not stalling out because some self preservation circuit decided the load was too much. Forcing an employee or user to switch to a lower gear creates a common situation: Plenty of times, a slower bit speed will actually significantly reduce its cutting efficiency, which means that using a slower gear to ramp up the torque will actually require to drill to work harder and longer, and it will mean the employee will not be able to get as much done.
Good explanation of capacity vs power, which are indeed two different things, but they are equivalent in the sense that the power output of a motor times its efficiency can never exceed the capacity of the batteries, in fact the output times its efficiency is EQUAL to the capacity of the battery. I love my cordless tools, and the only way I'd upgrade to the 36v or even the 20v line is if max performance is improved. I'm not as concerned with battery life, that's what multi port chargers and extra batteries are for.
I detest waiting for my tools to perform. And until the corded tools lose their status as the benchmark for performance, then performance should be the metric. Just to clarify as my post doesn't make it totally clear that the Intelligence is in the Tool, not the battery.. In the past, Dewalt tried putting the Intelligence in the Batteries, but in hindsight, it is obvious that this was totally wrong.
A battery suffers from different loads and requirements form each tool. The same goes for a Radio for example.. On the other hand, the demands on a battery in a Circ. Saw, SDS, or Re-cip are on another level.. Hence the intelligence checking for battery temp upper and lower motor temp, motor RPM, load on the battery and discharge 'spikes' of the battery As you say, a great use of feedback to make better tools for the future based upon realtime applications, and potentially more powerful battery cells..
Thank you very much for that clarification. I assumed that if DeWalt was going to log usage through their batteries, they would have realized this and created logs that could be serialized or identified by the type of tool used. Otherwise, you are correct, they would not get useful information.
I also thought that the recycled batteries would be the easiest to retrieve. Otherwise, how would DeWalt retrieve the data? This would obviously skew the data. Perhaps this is exactly why DeWalt made their business decisions the way they did. I hope they never stop producing the 18v NiCd series until the other stuff can outperform on the extreme end.
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. How much torque?? Share More sharing options Followers 0. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2. Recommended Posts. Posted November 24, I need answers. And I figure this is the place to post. Thanx, I hope I can get to the bottom of the mystery Dewalt torque number???
Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options Bingobelle Posted November 24, Good luck. Maybe, there's something wrong with your drill?? Hope this helps And those augerbits, can not se the point with them on a building site. Posted November 25, Posted November 26, Posted November 27, Thanx for all the replies people. Posted November 29, Posted December 25, Posted December 26, Given the OP's post I don't see a heavy side load as likely.
Posted December 27, Posted January 19, Posted January 20, If any of these are not within Dewalt's optimum for longevity settings, the switch will 'enforce' an apparent stall until such times that the tradesman adjusts setting accordingly usually change of torque setting by virtue of gearbox speed Dewalt can now take a readout of any New 'Slide-pack' tool and it will measure everything on a readout.
Posted January 24, Posted January 25, Thank you again. Join the conversation You can post now and register later. Reply to this topic Insert image from URL. Go to topic listing. Member Statistics 16, Total Members.
Newest Member Connoleib Joined 5 hours ago. Week Month Year All Time. Mathew 3. Eric - TIA 2. Torque, measured in Newton Metres Nm , is the force that causes an object to rotate and is the best gauge to see how powerful your drill or impact driver is and the higher the number in newton metres the more twisting force it will deliver. Think of torque settings like a clutch in a car. When you press the clutch pedal all the way in the wheels on the car lose power and speed.
When you release the clutch pedal all the power goes to the wheels and they spin faster. The trigger on a drill acts like the accelerator pedal in a car, the harder you press the trigger the faster the drill spins. These drills are sturdier, more powerful and while they cannot be used to assemble furniture, they can be used for tightening or loosening screws on a construction site. As with any purchase, your budget will depend on the power tool you're after and your needs.
However, if you're trying to decide between two models with similar features and performance levels, opting for a well-known brand will ensure you get a better quality product with a longer service life. It's important to think about how you might use your drill in the future as well as your immediate needs.
Choose a drill driver with 2 Ni-Cd batteries 12 to Various jobs. Assembling furniture and decking, drilling plasterboard, wood 35 mm , steel 13 mm and concrete 15 mm. All jobs. Choose a hammer drill with a power rating of at least W, a 10 or 13 mm keyed or keyless chuck, 1, rpm and variable speed control.
For greater user comfort and a better quality tool, we recommend choosing a high-end tool with good performance ratings.
Drill bit buying guide. Shop our drill bit sets. Shop our metal drill bits. Shop our masonry drill bits. Shop our wood drill bits. Screwdriver bit buying guide. Shop our screwdriver bits. It is also advisable to wear hearing protection when using a drill in impact mode.
The primary function of a drill is to drill holes, making it an essential power tool for anyone who wants to put up a shelf or hang a picture. However, the type of drill and drill features you need will depend on whether you want to drill holes in concrete to insert fixing plugs , drill through glass , drill holes or insert screws into wood , drill through metal or drill lots of holes very accurately. Before we consider corded and cordless power drills in more detail, let's take a look at the different types of drill available and what they are used for.
A corded drill or hammer drill is an essential tool for any building site or workshop. These heavy-duty drills are designed specifically for drilling rather than screwing, because they are heavier, bigger and more powerful. Their key characteristics determine their drilling power and what types of material hard or soft they can drill into. Note: a hammer drill is not a substitute for a rotary hammer , because it is less efficient when it comes to drilling hard materials.
In the past, hammer mode generally only came as an option on standard drills, but today it can be difficult to find a drill without hammer action. Battery-operated drills are just as useful as corded drills as they can be used in places where there is no electricity, and for driving screws. Cordless drills are versatile and easy to handle. They can be used in screwdriver mode to assemble flatpack furniture, garden sheds and decking , and in drilling mode to drill holes in plasterboard, wood, brick and even concrete for the most powerful models with a hammer mode.
These tools have adjustable torque settings, several drilling speeds and a Li-ion battery. Combi-drills will even feature a hammer mode. There is a model to suit every budget and requirement! A pneumatic drill or air drill uses compressed air supplied by a compressor either a standalone model or a fixed supply. These tools are lightweight, and their simple design makes them ideal if you have a large number of holes to drill.
However, the air supply hose can sometimes get in the way if you are using the tool in awkward spaces. This type of drill is designed for drilling smaller holes. Angle drills are easy to handle and allow for precise drilling. They can be corded or cordless and are ideal for inserting or removing screws in tricky corners. The chuck on these drills is offset by an angle adaptor, making this a very specific type of tool. Angled bit holders can also be fitted on standard drills. Pillar drills are often called bench drills because they can be installed on a frame and attached to the floor.
They are found in the workshops of cabinet makers, metalworkers, knife makers, etc. You simply need to adjust the height of the platform before bringing the drill down using a lever attached to the side of the machine. Like pillar drills, radial drills are fixed drills. They have a moving arm which pivots parallel to the workbench surface to drill holes at a considerable distance from the edge of the workpiece extends the throat depth, which is especially useful for certain jobs.
The pivoting head makes it possible to drill holes at tricky angles and in places that are difficult to access. Magnetic drills are designed for professional users.
They have a magnetic base that attaches to metal structures. The magnetic base allows for precise drilling and grinding. Some models have water-cooling systems. A hand drill or brace is an old-fashioned drill favoured by nostalgic DIYers who enjoy manual work, or people who only have one hole to drill although in this case, a gimlet would also do the job. Both types of tool can drill holes and drive screws and are used for decorating, woodworking, renovating and other DIY jobs.
However, one is better for drilling, the other for driving screws. Designed for versatility and intensive use , corded drills are more powerful than cordless drills. They plug into a standard socket and run on mains electricity volts. They are ideal for working indoors and on building sites.
Most of the time they feature a hammer mode for drilling hard materials like brick, breeze block, stone and concrete. Their chucks come in difference shapes and sizes and can be used with drill bits, hole saws, screwdriver bits, sockets, etc. Corded drills can drill holes in all materials up to a certain diameter and can also be used for screwing and unscrewing thanks to reverse and variable speed functions. However, corded drills are heavier and more powerful than battery-operated drills, meaning they are not as easy to handle.
Their portability is limited by the length of the power cable , and the tool requires a mains power supply , or a generator if the building site does not have a mains supply. Cordless drills are more versatile and are generally recommended as the tool to purchase if you are mainly looking to drive screws.
In addition to being easier to handle, these tools do not have to be connected to the mains meaning they can be used in areas without electricity and for one-off projects such as building a shed at the bottom of the garden.
As with corded drills, various accessories can be fitted on the chuck grinding bits, chisels, mixer paddle, etc. Some cordless drills or combi-drills can be used to drill holes of up to approx. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More. Show only OP. Hi Guys I am still looking at cordless drills. I have been to look in the shops, and have seen torques of 30, 50 and 60Nm. How much torque do I really need?
I do have a corded W masonry impact drill. However, I can see the cordless being much more convenient, so I guess I want one up to most jobs, so maybe able to drill say 6mm holes in masonry too. Certainly good enough for drilling all holes in timber for constructing things. What is the minimum torque you would go for? I don't want to underbuy and find it's not up to the job.
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